After confirming that there are no bends in the switch pins, you can attach it firmly by starting from the middle row and working outward. Completed half of the keyboard waiting for keycaps. More soldering basics and tips! SofleRGB uses QMK firmware, it can use any Sofle keymap. Build-Guide for the Lily58L Split-Keyboard pcb. For 3mm Acrylic Base and 3mm Acrylic Switch plates screw in the 5x 6mm standoffs into the the base plate. The QMK Wiki is a fantastic resource, as is the QMK Discord. This article is Part 3 in a 6-Part Series.. Part 1 -In search of the best custom keyboard layout Part 2 -Let me introduce you SofleKeyboard - a split keyboard based on Lily58 and Crkbd Part 3 -SofleKeyboard build log/guide; Part 4 -Sofle Keyboard evolution: slow and not really steady Part 5 -Another year of Sofle keyboard Part 6 -Sta AKA Sofle Unsplit - a monoblock split keyboard Keep in mind that this is a prototype of a DIY keyboard. All the process could be separated into 3 sections: 1) soldering electronic parts 2) Lubing the switches 3) putting all together. I thought I would share my background and feedback on the experience in the hope that others might find it helpful. A symbol different from the symbol input by "@" or "[" etc. Cannot retrieve contributors at this time. And to finish with the soldering part you must solder the JACK sockets and the RESET buttons to the PCB. For these it is definitely best to do them in order, and test regularly. Please set Lily 58 as a US keyboard in the OS keyboard settings. Given the context I've presented in the previous section, I chose some parts that fit the most my requirements: build on top of open-source hardware and software so I could modify it; move to ortholinear split keyboard layout; size around 60% and use MX-like tactile switches. Lily 58 pro Mechanical Keyboard | 1.5 Year Update I've been using my Lily 58 Pro for about a year and a half and it looks a bit different these days so I thought I would give an updated video on. Once I did that, both halves worked well. With a bit more solder than usual on the tip solder down another diode leg and pad. Insert a few switches into the switch plate, then insert the PCB into the switch legs. Second, I own more mechanical keyboards (keeb) than my pocket desires. Keep in mind that this is a prototype of a DIY keyboard. As mentioned before keyboard parts are usually sold out as they are not manufactured in large chunks. Starting with the diodes. I relied on several online resources to learn about what goes into building a keyboard, the basic equipment needed, and the firmware pieces necessary for it all to work. One keyboard vendor - Keyhive - is selling their own fork of Sofle RGB. If the orientation is incorrect, the key will not respond. Add more. , As an advice, to build your firmware use a virtualized environment because QMK depends on a bunch of system libraries with specific versions that may not match your system. The QMK firmware is highly customizable, and you can unlock a lot functionality simply by editing the key map. A build guide Lily58 Pro suggests 4mm for Choc and 7mm for MX. Lily58 Pro is a 58 key split keyboard with OLEDs and supports an LED strip. When attaching with a spring pin header (con-through), solder it according to the method described in the Helix build guide and then attach it to the Lily 58 PCB. Soldering Crash Course: Basic Techniques, Tips and Advice! there are 58 switches so a ton of work to do. Its not a polished product. There are several ways how to mount Pro Micros to the board. Parts Required Optional Firmware preparation If you build the firmware yourself, it will take some time to set up the environment, so it's best to start at the beginning. This keyboard runs QMK and the firmware can be found here. I wouldn't mind adding some LED backlighting to this Helix build guide. You can find links for the most of the components in the sourcing parts section. Screw in the standoffs on the top side of the PCB for the OLED Cover first. Use a piece of tape to fix them and apply solder from the bottom side. Make sure you have orientation right - they are all oriented to the same side. Make sure you know which way around your leds are, different brands have different pin 1 positions. You would need to add support to the firmware on your own. Solder the 2x 12 Pin Headers provided with your controller on the top side of the PCB in the marked rectangle section. keyboard-only usage. Note: Choc switches do not work with acrylic case. Their height depends on which switches you use. LEAD TIME in FAQ Tab. Apply preliminary solder (melt a small amount on the substrate) on one pad of the PCB diode. I watched several YouTube videos on soldering and some keyboard build videos, and read a handful of build logs and build guides before ordering parts. So taking the default keymap as my starting point, I started to tweak things almost immediately to fit my typing style and allow me to ease into a layout that isn't too far from a standard QWERTY keyboard. Use a piece of tape to fix them and apply solder from the bottom side. I have added a single LED to the top surface to act as a layer indicator, this is enabled by bridging 2-3 on J6(indicator bypass). Sofle keyboard uses QMK Firmware and support for the board is part of the main QMK repository. The right half has the pro micro mounted up-side up so its mounted differently on each half. The diodes are mounted on the back side of the board. We will mount parts on each side. NOTE: The kits now includes an FR4 plate case. I would say start with the ZMK documentation . Make sure halves are not connected together with TRRS cable. This section assumes that you're familiar with keymaps and the use of the QMK tool. If not, check if the corresponding sockets or diodes need to be reflowed. Desoldering is frustrating and its easy to mess up things. Create a solder bridge from the led to the board, not spending too much time with the iron on the led (few seconds) otherwise it will burn out. I used brass ones but you can also buy nicer from anodised aluminium. Before I dig into the how, I figured I should share a bit about the why I went ahead and put together my own keyboard. Pcbs and cases are sold in . For kits purchased at YushaKobo, a spring pin header is included, so use that. The Sofle RGB is a copy of the Sofle V2 with the addition of up to 36 RGB leds per side. and has the the following additional features. Now you have completed the build process, congrats comrade! And if you find any problem there are incredible communities to look for information like Reddit (r/MechanicalKeyboards, r/ErgoMechKeyboards) and geekhack.org forums. Please refer to the official QMK documentation for the key codes and programming specifics. If it is wrong, remove it and re-solder it. Available at: https://keyhive.xyz/shop/lily58. The pro micro must be installed with the components facing the pcb, and the plain back side facing out. Here's what it looks like about a week in: It's only been a week and I'm still slowly getting the hang of things. On the right half, diode D27 was rotated 180 degrees from usual. If you are building a Lily58 rev1.0 with per-key RGB but without underglow, you need to solder the jumper marked JP1 instead of the JP2 indicated in the build guide. I have used rounded pin headers. If you bought an Aurora Lily58, please use the Aurora Build Guide. Fully Wireless Lily58 Pro. Ive been using some keeb or another for more than 8 years, and I continuously I Have Waited A LONG TIME for this keyboard!!! (It's easier to work the diodes if you cautiously open the container onto a small plate.). As I mentioned, this was going to be my first real foray into a hardware project, and that too making a keyboard where I needed to solder! Also this build guide no longer applies to their version. (MX: 7mm Choc: 4mm), Attach four key switches to the top plate. The RGB version has dedicated build guide. The QMK Toolbox can be used to write non-customized keymaps via a GUI, avoiding the need to configure a local QMK environment. The PCBs from BoardSource.xyz are reversible, as in you can solder components on either one side of the PCB, but do make sure to pick the left and the right halves before you start soldering! Black PCBs. When all diodes have been soldered, check for missing spots. Version 2: The left side as for version 1. For parts that require force, firmly solder both pads and check the final result for any looseness/wiggling. Suggested approach is to build the firmware yourself. Solder the OLED screen hotswap sockets on the top side of the PCB. Don't plug in (or unplug!) 1 TRRS cable. I stuck very close to the Lily58 build guide I linked above. 10 x 7mm Brass Standoffs (MX Normal Profile) OR 5mm Brass Standoffs (Choc Low Profile), 58 x Kailh Hotswap Sockets (MX Normal Profile) OR Choc Low Profile Sockets (Choc Low Profile), 2 x Pro Micro Controllers (Comes with Headers to Direct Attach), 2 x 40 Pin Machined Breakable Female Header (Enable Controller Hot Swap). switch between them as I prefer each day. The following is needed to build the keyboard. A bit more information about socketing of Pro Micro is on the sourcing parts page. Given the context Ive presented in the previous section, I chose some parts that fit the most QMK is a small program, aka firmware, that luckily is open source and with an incredible documentation page that guides you on how to build it for a large number of custom keyboards, and it has support for split keyboards! Load the downloaded JSON file into the QMK Toolbox and write it to the boards. Sockets for switches belong again on the back side, the same side as diodes. The per key lighting is painful and slow. The Lily58 is a perfect choice for people who want to be on a split keyboard but still want to have a fairly standard amount of keys. When you plug it in, the on-board LEDs should turn on. This version is modified in way that makes it incompatible with the firmware for the official designs. Peel off the masking tape used to identify the front and back of the board. Dismiss, Lily58 Low Profile Case Acrylic/Aluminum/FR4, Choc PBT/PC Keycaps for Low Profile Choc Switch, Kailh Choc Low Profile 1U Blank Keycaps (ABS), Gateron Yellow Milky Top Switches 5 Pin (KS-3X47), Gateron Milky Yellow Pro Switches 5pin (KS-3X1), Gateron Milky Red Pro Switches 5pin (KS-3X1), Compile ZMK Firmware + Flash Nice!Nano Controller. Make sure Switch Legs are not bended and are aligned with socket holes. Intro Lily58 Pro Parts List Warnings 1 Flash the Pro Micro Controller with QMK firmware 2 SOLDER THE DIODES 3 SOLDER HOTSWAP SWITCH SOCKETS 4 BRIDGE THE FOUR JUMPERS 5 CONTROLLER'S HOTSWAP SOCKETS 6 SOLDER THE CONTROLLER 7 PCB TEST The build is completed by attaching the four rubber feet to the back of each board. 13A) Insert all the remaining switches, making sure there are no bended legs. But hey! In the case of badly attached diode: Solder the TRRS in the marked contour on PCB and Reset tactile switch on the top side of the PCB. If not, please refer to the QMK "Getting Started" guide (Windows: MSYS2; Mac, Linux: avrdude). Oh, and my build doesn't have any OLED screens to install so I skipped that bit. Here's what I bought in order to completely put together the Lily58. As a little advice dont overheat your soldering iron, 150 C if enough. Symptoms: only the first 4 underglow LEDs will work, this will occur on both halves of the board. The sofle RGB uses the following table, with the silkscreen marking at pin 1 (Dout). Shay Kalyan, The Worst Hobby on the Internet - Mechanical Keyboards (Beginners Guide). On each PCB half 2x 12mm length. Mount with the wider side (labeled "" here) outwards. The process involves a lot of research: you will learn a lot about electronics , watch tons of Youtube videos about soldering SMD, read a large number of comments and experiences online. For doing that just follow the QMK Vagrant page. Be careful to avoid adding a lot of solder, as it is easy for solder to flow into the connector. If not, please follow the instructions in the documentation. After being baited by several beautiful builds online, I really had no choice but to dive into the world of mechanical keyboards with zero electronics experience under my belt. Their modification is not part of the repository and therefore we cant fix any problems and we cant help with any problems you might have with the design. Theres also a basic support in QMK Configurator but theres no default layout yet and encoders are not supported. At this point, you must check if all key keys work properly by connecting the keyboard to the computer. The TRRS jack and the reset switch are mounted on the front side (the one with the sticker on the mark). Start with the diodes. Remedy: This can be easily corrected by adding a wire between the via and the trace immediately above it in the picture. 2, This can be changed, look for setting handednesss in QMK documentation. In the case of badly attached socket: If you wish to use per key lighting, you also need to short pins 1-2 of 5. Be cautious of bent pins when pushing the switch down. Insert a switch into a hot swap socket and test that a keycode is pressed. The front sides marked by pieces of tape in order to remember which side is which. Many Git commands accept both tag and branch names, so creating this branch may cause unexpected behavior. They are easy to break. I've estimated it's battery life somewhere between 1-2 months. Version 1: Make sure you insert them into the holes which are marked by the rectangles. into a rabbit hole while choosing parts, you only have to visit the Mechanical Keyboard subreddit to realize that. Keyhive version: Pay attention, if you purchased Sofle RGB from Keyhive. Kailh Box and choc switches require a bit of force for installation. Make sure they are flush with PCB and match the orientation shown on the silkscreen. The communication between both halves is done via TRRS interface, which is an audio-like audio cable but with 4 channels instead of 2, connected through JACK ports installed on each half. However, because it shares the exact same process as the Kyria, you can follow the build steps of the Kyria Build Guide. The script will: Prompt you for which board (e.g. The only point I deviated was to first flash the microcontroller with QMK before I got started with the build as it's a good idea to make sure the ones that get shipped boot up and connect! Soldering & Build difficulty: , FREE Shipping Worldwide on all custom cables. If not, please follow the instructions in the documentation. This is how the backside (bottom) should look at this stage. Most of the photos are for v1 and the differences are explained in the text as needed. After removing the key switch, make sure that the pins aren't bent, and then push it in again and install it. Check the direction of the diode in question. Follow. Collin's Lab: Soldering by Adafruit Industries. Dismiss, Compile ZMK Firmware + Flash Nice!Nano Controller. Once you verify that, you can set up bluetooth profiles for the keyboard. Many Git commands accept both tag and branch names, so creating this branch may cause unexpected behavior. Make sure you have orientation right - they are all oriented to the same side. Moving into full time work five years ago, I quickly realized the discomfort of using traditional keyboards and found the work-provided Microsoft Sculpt Ergonomic Keyboard did a great job to relieve me of that. Solder the 4 jumper pads on the same side that the pro micro will be mounted on. 20 (+8) M2 screws. Insert into holes. But this build guide is the main source of important details for your build - like Pro-Micro orientation, component placement etc. I'll no doubt continue to iterate on the keymap I've shared above, but I think the itch is still there to meddle a bit more in this space and see what else I can do with the new set of tools and skills I've picked up. by wermy. (For custom keymaps, it's recommended to build the full environment described above). Clone/download the QMK firmware and execute the following in the qmk_firmware directory to write the default Lily58L keymap. After mounting the plate, push the switches again to make sure that installation is complete. The default layout for the SofleRGB is in the qmk repo, and demonstrates some LED functions. Put the backplate using the standoffs left and screw them together to finish everything! Insert the OLED pin into the socket, attach the OLED module to it, and solder the four pins. Solder pull-up resistors (4k7) to the PCB (R1, R2) without OLED. If you have any problems, please feel free to send a message to the "#Lily58" channel on Discord ("Self-Made Keyboards in Japan" (https://discordapp.com/invite/NM7XtDW)) or Twitter: @F_YUUCHI. First of all, you need to solder SMD diodes alongside each switch socket, on my Lily58 PCB The default keymap is laid out on the assumption that it will be used in the MacOS/US keyboard environment. Cherry MX Switch Comparison by KeyMouse. When Detecting USB port, reset your controller now is displayed, press the reset button on the keyboard to start writing. The Lily58 is a 58 key split keyboard design by kata0510, featuring a 6x4 columnar stagger and 4 thumb cluster keys on each hand. but the supply chain is scarce. Repeat all the steps above on the another half. Always disconnect the USB cable first. In 2 sets come 24 + 24 Pins enough for 2 controllers, Optional, but its always fun to put a bongo cat for example later on the screen, to check the wpm or show current layer etc, if the controller will be hotswap, this makes total sense to have, or Micro USB cable (depending on the chosen controller). QMK is the software of choice for these keyboards. The main half acts as a master that forwards events produced from its sibling to the computer. 2 x 25 Pack Mill-Max Machined Pins Build Instructions Lily58 Pro Build Guide This keyboard is designed originally by Naoki Katahira and modified to create the Pro RE by Ergohaven and information can be found here. On the PCB tin one diode pad first. Third, out there there are prebuilt keyboards or parts to build your own. Keep in mind that this hobby is not cheap . Following the steps in this guide, you will: Create a new repository in GitHub that will contain your user config. 4 lines (3 sloc) 152 Bytes. Its not a polished product. Lily58 Pro Build Guide by Keyhive. It can be found on QMK repo. over the years Ive learned to shift from keyboard+mouse interaction to almost Think on them as typical Fn keys but not limited for one row of the keyboard but for every single key on it. The pin header enclosed in the bag of ProMicro is not used. Raw Blame. and experimentation desire with orthogonal, split keyboards which are the strangest girl in the party. This self-made keyboard use the QMK firmware, described above. Flash the controller (pro micro, Elite C, nice!nano, etc) with the firmware. Dont overtighten the screws when assembling the acrylic plates as they might crack. Many highlights in this guide contain useful links, hover with the mouse over them and click. Its clean side should be at the top, visible. There are several ready-made consumer options out there like the ZSA Moonlander and Dygma Raise but both are relatively pricey for a keyboard, selling for over $350. Keep in mind height of your Pro Micro which may be different based on if/which sockets you have used for Pro Micro. In order to have the OLED Screens enabled, before compiling/flashing the controllers, dont forget to add the code line in the rules.mk file in your Lilys keymap folder: (If you dont plan to hotswap the microcontroller skip to 6th step.). Mark the surface with masking tape to make it easy to keep track of the back and front of each board. Lily58 Pro Custom Mechanical Keyboard with nice!nanos Build Stream by Nicell. Click here for the Corne Cherry v2 build guide. Additional information. Lily58L is 64+4keys column-staggered split keyboard. Lily58 Pro was created by @kata0510. After switching, switching to Japanese input becomes the switching key for the US keyboard, and it differs from the JIS keyboard, so please be careful (it can be customized with the key map etc.). (The sockets can also be held in place by hand, but please take extra care not to burn yourself.) To enable drop lighting, short pins 2-3 of J4(Light select), to enable only per key lighting short pins 1-2 of J4. Lily58 KB Build Guide. Build guides for Helix, Corne and Lily58 suggest those spring pin headers which are very compact and give you non-permanent connection (you can remove or replace Pro Micros). The wiki has information about keymaps, lighting, and encoder code. Test if OLED screen is on and keypresses are registering. Lily58 Pro/Pro RE keyboard is a64+4keys column-staggered split keyboard. Solder with the diode wire always pointing in the direction of the arrow symbol drawn on the board (shown in the following figure). Pro Micro boards dont come with firmware preinstalled, but there is a community-driven project to make it to work called QMK. Lily58 Pro Custom Mechanical Keyboard with nice!nanos Build Stream Nicell 786 subscribers Subscribe 619 42K views 2 years ago A full split Lily58 Pro kit build with nice!nanos running the. 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